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Introduction
This
information is provided as a “How
To” article, nothing more. I’m presenting it
because other modelers have asked to see the method. It’s a
resource provided by Central Hobbies for the users of their
products. I’ve been using this method now for a long time
with no failures. When the folks at Central Hobbies saw the
system they decided to improve on it and prepare it as a
complete kit. Once again Central is making life easy as a
one-stop outlet for F3A products.
The
installation and the attention to details are critical for
the trouble free operation of this setup. Central Hobbies is
providing a service to us by packaging all the parts in one
place as a kit. They’re not responsible for the methods used
in this article. In essence, we’re dealing with glue joints,
and builder-manufactured components. It’s up to the builder
to take every precaution he feels is needed, and he assumes
all risk for the operation. Read the instructions
completely before you dive into building this thing.
What
makes a good elevator system?
In my
opinion the absolute best elevator control assembly is
designed to be light and strong, while allowing the least
amount of differential between the elevator halves. The
following setup is not my design. I want to give the credit
for this great idea to the guy who came up with it.
I’ve
adapted some different methods of mounting, to create the
best solution for me. I’ve used this same setup on 6 planes
(I’ve been running this setup since 1999 in F3A aircraft
with hundreds of flights a year and zero failures and zero
maintenance) and just finished installing it on a 7th.
I’ve made some minor changes in mounting the system. And
of course the new Titanium fittings improve on an already
great system. My original Smaragd Z now has
over 2000 flights with zero problems. I’ve been watching
the linkage closely in recent months for any signs of wear.
It’s as good today as when the plane was new!
Granted,
this method requires more work to install. But the results
are superb. Once you do it you will never go back! It takes
doing it at least once to learn the technique of installing
it in the fuse. But the second time is a cakewalk, and
you’ll only need to line up your servo and the exit holes.
The pushrod setup then spans the gap.
The extra
work may seem intimidating and can make you stare at it for
awhile, thinking about how it’s suppose to work. But when
you’re done it’s lighter than the Bellcranks, and a more
trouble-free system than cables. This setup only weighs 1.5
to 2 oz., and it’s more rigid in the differential control
than anything I’ve ever found. Totally mechanical, and — if
installed properly — it’s friction free. I have some
pictures below that show it completed. So you shouldn’t
have too much head scratching.
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