Be
sure to wait until you're sure the 30-min epoxy or JB
weld has cured.
Now go
to the elevator side of the connection.
On the
Elevator side of the pushrod assembly, the 0.070” solid
core carbon fiber rods should be sticking out about 6-8”
past where they need to be. Maybe more, depending on
where your elevator servo is located. You’re going to
cut them and attach a threaded link. The DEPS kit comes
with 2 female titanium fittings. These titanium
fittings fit the solid rods perfectly.
Now use
the same technique as up front. Install the female
fittings onto the clevis. Install the clevis on the
elevator control horn.
I use
the MK’s BB clevis devices. They provide
nearly unlimited life, and using them since about 97’
I’ve never worn one out. They’re a great product!
Once
this is all connected, just as it’ll be in flight, turn
the elevator servo on and make sure it’s centered. Use
masking tape to hold the elevator halves centered, and
mark the spot to cut the two 0.070” solid CF rods. Use
a Dremel-type cut off wheel, and cut the rods a little
long.
Next,
test fit everything together, trimming the two CF rods
back a little each time, until they fit perfectly inside
the solder link, leaving no gaps inside the connection.
The
titanium female fittings are about 9/16” socket depth.
Clean each CF pushrod with alcohol and take some 100
grit sand paper and just scruff it up a little. Not too
much or you’ll cut the fibers and make the pushrod weak.
Just scuff it lightly.
Now use
30-min epoxy or JB weld to glue the pushrod inside the
female fitting. Make sure you have a really good lather
of epoxy inside the hole for good coverage.
|
IT’S IMPORTANT TO MAKE SURE THE PUSHRODS ARE
INSERTED ALL THE WAY INTO THE FEMALE FITTINGS —
AS FAR AS THEY WILL GO. |
This
gives maximum surface for bonding and highest strength.
Don’t worry, 9/16” is plenty of depth. But you don’t
want less. Side loads can cause problems
— another reason to not
have any bending or binding where the rods exit the fuse
and attach to the elevator control horns.
Once
each rod is in and well covered with glue, wipe any
excess adhesive off the connection from the outside.
Leave a small bead of glue at the joint. It should look
a little like a plumber’s sweat joint.
Let
everything cure, and the assembly is built and
connected.
It’s
done! I know there are lots of words with these
instructions, so how about some more pictures of it?
See the
photos on the next page of the finished product.
