The front servo connection:

I use the following method because it’s light, simple, and has survived crashes still intact. I use a piece of Central Hobbies 5/32” carbon fiber pushrod about 3” to 4” long and attach it to the two 0.070” solid core CF rods with Kevlar thread and thin CA glue. I wrap about 1” of length.

The piece of 5/32” pushrod and a 4-40 titanium fitting are included in the DEPS kit. The fitting below is NOT glued in place yet, but just dry-fit to show the connection for clarification purposes. The 4-40 fitting will be glued in place later on.

DEPS   Photo #2: connecting the rods

Leave the 5/32” hollow CF tube long for now. Get the servo 100% mounted and ready for action. It won’t really matter whether it’s mounted on its side or not. I choose a side-mounted setup, as shown in a later picture. But the fact is, it makes no difference.

Trial-fit the pushrods inside the sleeves. You may need to clean out any paint that’s inside the guide at the fuse exit locations. This’ll usually just pop right out when you slide the pushrods in from the front.  If not, use a small round file to re-open the exit, making it friction-free again.

Leave the elevator horn’s side connection alone for now. The pushrods are long, and you need to have one connection setup perfectly before you go to the other end.

Make sure that you have about an inch of travel either way out of the servo when pushing the “Y” pushrod. It’s important that you have no binding of the “Y” as the separate rods enter their respective guide sleeves. This is why the 5/32” pushrod is in the middle separating the solid CF rods. 

It’s okay to have a little extra of the dual pushrods extending out past the balsa sticks and guides but don’t make it a really long extension. I usually leave about 2” to 2.5”. These rods can flex a little, so keep everything as close as possible, while still allowing for friction-free movement.

Cut the length of 5/32” Central Hobbies pushrod off so that it makes everything the proper length.  Remember, you have a ball link and a titanium fitting to glue into the other end of the “Y” connection.  [see illustration #1 below]

Test fit the assembly

Next, I test fit everything together. I actually thread my ball link onto the titanium fitting and then slide the fitting into the hollow CF tube. Everything is attached to the servo arm and the elevator servo powered up and centered. I then move the servo its maximum amount of expected travel and look for binding. I make sure I have just a little extra travel room in case needs change in the future and I need more elevator throw than expected.

Once all the parts are dry fit and assembled, make sure everything is the proper length.  If everything’s correct, then epoxy the titanium end into the 5/32” piece of hollow carbon fiber pushrod (JB Weld is also a very good adhesive for this).

I use the 30-minute epoxy, and I make sure I have a good lather of it inside the hollow pushrod. Wipe any excess off with a paper towel.

While the glue is still wet, I hook everything up to the servo again, just as if it was ready to fly on this end of the pushrod. These positioning will hold things in place while the adhesive cures.  A rubber band may help to keep tension on the fitting to keep it snug in the 5/32” CF rod. 

Don't move the assembly until you're sure the 30-min epoxy or JB weld has cured.