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Laying it
all out...
The “V” is
as wide as the fuse at the exit holes. Pretty easy
dimension to get. Let the guides and the pushrod overhang
the balsa sticks some on the exit end. They’ll exit the
fuse and you want that guide to be cut flush with the fuse
sides after gluing. This makes a friction-free guide the
entire length, inside the fuse. I use ¼” sq. balsa for the
cross pieces of the ladder. I build the “V’ up and glue it
all with a thin CA glue.
Then take
some ¼" balsa, light stuff say ¼” x ¾”, and make the
supports you see (in the photo) holding it in position
inside the fuse. Leave the assembly about 3 to 4 inches
short of the elevator servo connection. You’ll need the room
later, when you attach the pushrods to each other, and then
to the servo arm. I’ll discuss the attachment to the servo
later.
IMPORTANT:
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For a
friction-free setup, you’ll need to minimize bending or
bowing from the fuse exit to the elevator control horn, or
from the center of the fuse connection shown above to the
servo arm. So it’s very important to position your fuse
exits in the perfect location. |
I usually
have my stabs done and completed, the stab mounted on the
fuse, and the control horns already on the elevator halves,
so that I’ll know the proper location. You should also have
your elevator servo mount and servo with arm installed, so
that the angle of the ladder can be lined up as a straight
shot inside the fuse. This is the most critical and the most
difficult part of the install.
Make your
fuse exits slightly over-sized to allow for a unrestricted
positioning. Once you have the locations and everything
trial fit, you’re ready to make the cross supports to secure
the ladder inside the fuse. Longer is better. You can
always sand them to fit farther back along the fuse, if
needed. These are easy to make and need not be perfectly
spaced. Just make sure you’re close to mid-span and also
attached up front near the servo. The ¼” sq. balsa sticks
with the guide sleeves attached are continued all the way
back to the exit holes and actually glue to the fuse at this
exit location. The result is a very solid support where the
rods exit the fuse.
This method
gives 3 supports over the entire length of the pushrods
while inside the fuse. Again, refer to photo #1 above for
the installed setup. You can use more supports but they’re
not needed. I would not use fewer than the 3 supports shown
above.
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One other note: When cutting off the balsa
sticks for proper length, don’t cut the guide
sleeves or the CF pushrods. Leave them their
full length. This will aid in future steps and
setup. |
Once you
have the ladder glued down inside the fuse, use extra epoxy,
filled with Micro balloons, to fill the slots at the rear of
the fuse where the pushrod guide exits. This makes them fit
solid. The idea here is to make sure the guide-sleeve is
totally surrounded or encased in Epoxy. You’re not trying to
fill the slot for painting, to just make sure that the nylon
sleeve isn’t going anywhere.
Next, you
can cut the guides and sand them, and any excess epoxy,
flush with the outside of the fuse. Dips and depressions
should be filled before primer and painting, using a
lightweight auto body filler. I use Polyester glazing
putty. It dries very quick and sands like balsa. Make sure
to keep the guide sleeves clear of epoxy or filling putty.
Now you’re
ready to paint the fuse. Don’t use any special prep to your
fuse exits and don’t worry about primer or paint clogging
them up. Just don’t use body filler to clog them up. After
the fuse is painted, you can clean out the paint in the
guides with a small round file if they’re giving any
friction. The little bit of paint that gets inside will come
right out.
Fuse is all
done, painted, and it's time to hook everything up.
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